Before you begin, you will need to:
1) Print out a copy of the pattern.
2) Get some graph paper.
3) Reverse the two charts for the pattern. The order of the rows will be the same, but you will essentially be knitting from the last stitch to the first stitch in each row. (If you have trouble keeping track of the stitches, an easy way to do this is to print out an extra copy of the two charts, hold the chart up to a window with the printed side facing away from you, and trace the chart as it shows through the paper.)
The following are the modifications I made to the pattern to reverse it. So as not to reproduce the entire pattern (and thereby probably infringe on its copyright!), I am only outlining the parts of the pattern that need to be changed from the original. You will want to keep a copy of the pattern with you so you will know when to plug in the modifications.
Every effort has been made to make sure that these mods are correct (I've test knit the reversed sock twice), but if you do find an error, please let me know so I can correct it. Also, please feel free to e-mail me or leave a comment if you have questions!
Note: All the symbols in the charts are the same as for the original EXCEPT for the symbol that stands for K2tog tbl. In the reversed pattern, this symbol will stand for K2tog (as normal; not through back loop).
DIRECTIONS
Cuff
CO 72 sts and divide as directed.
Round 1: [K1 tbl, P1] to end.
Repeat this round 9 times more.
Leg
Set-up Round: [(K1 tbl, P1) five times, K2tog, YO] to end of round
Work Rounds 2-22 of Chart A.
After each chart has been worked, rearrange stitches as follows:
Move last stitch from each needle to the beginning of the next needle.
You will begin Row 1 of Chart A at the second stitch, since you have already knit the new first stitch you just transferred from needle 3.
Work Chart A a total of 3 times, rearranging stitches after Row 22 each time.
Heel Flap
Transfer 12 stitches from needle 2 to needle 1. You will have 36 stitches on needle 1, which will be worked back and forth for the heel flap. Hold the remaining 36 stitches on one or two other needles.
Row 1: (K1 tbl, P1) across to end
Row 2: Sl 1, (P1 tbl, K1) across to last stitch, P1 tbl
Row 3: Sl 1, P1, (K1 tbl, P1) across to end (*you may need to reorient the K sts for them to twist correctly)
Row 4: Sl 1, (P1 tbl, K1) across to last stitch, P1 tbl
Repeat rows 3 and 4 twelve times more.
Turn Heel
Follow directions as given in pattern.
Gussets
Follow directions as given, except for patterning on instep stitches. Instead, work Row 1 of reversed Chart B. Note that on this first repeat of the chart, you will K2 tog at the end of the row; on subsequent repeats of this chart, you will K3 tog.
Foot/Toe
Follow directions as given in pattern.
Great job!
ReplyDeletewow. that's all i can say. wow. that would have boggled my brain forever. i'm impressed!
ReplyDeleteFrom now on, I think I will be referring to you as "Queen of the Popo's." I even have a crown you can wear!
ReplyDeleteYOU are AWESOME!!
ReplyDeleteHi! I'm glad you posted this, I was looking for exactly that information! May I ask why the k2tog tbl are normal k2tog's in the reversed version? I'm not getting it... Thanks again!
ReplyDeleteHi Ariane, I'm glad you're finding this useful! The reason the k2tog tbl becomes a regular k2tog has to do with the way the stitches twist and the way the edge of the scallop shape pops in the regular pattern. The regular k2tog gets the stitches to twist and lean the opposite way of the k2tog tbl. I tried several different ways to get this to work, and this seems to be the best.
ReplyDeleteI'm trying to do the mirrored pattern on some fingerless gloves, but ran into a problem in the transition between row 10 and 11 - it seems like there would be 2 YOs in a row - the last stitch of row 10 and the first stitch of row 11. Am I missing something? Nobody else who has done this seems to have had a problem!
ReplyDelete